There are few walks that feel as much like stepping back through time as the Croesus Track above Blackball. This historic pack-track threads its way across the Paparoa Range, carving a path through open high-country tussock, scrubby ridgelines and pockets of forest where the past is never far from sight. The track’s true attraction lies in its layering of landscapes and stories: sweeping alpine vistas at every ridge, and the muted, poignant presence of mining relics that speak to a vigorous industry that once fought this land.
Start with the sense of arrival. The trailhead sits near Blackball, a small township whose own identity is tied to mining history, and immediately you feel the change of tempo as farmland and forest give way to the wide, exposed country of the Paparoa foothills. The track itself follows routes used by packhorses and prospectors, which means you’ll often find the line of the trail simple and direct — a reminder that this was a working landscape shaped by practical necessity, not leisure.
Mining relics are scattered along the way, from rusted corrugations and abandoned foundations to the skeletal remains of equipment that once powered extraction and transport. These artifacts are atmospheric rather than interpretive; they do not come with plaques at every turn, so visiting the Croesus Track rewards those who bring a little curiosity. Look closely in sheltered gullies and old workings and you’ll see traces of blasting and tailings, low stone walls and the ghosts of breakaway camps. They are tangible reminders of human determination and hardship on terrain that is often unforgiving.
But the track is not only about industry. The Paparoa’s open ridgelines offer wide skies and a sense of remoteness that contrasts with the mechanical angst of the relics. On crisp mornings the air is clear, and the sweep of valleys and slopes opens up in layers of muted color — tussock gold, rocky outcrops, and the distant blue of lower ranges. Weather moves quickly here, so the drama of sun, cloud and wind adds cinematic quality to the walk; moments of warm sun can be followed by sharp gusts that remind you this is high-country country, not parkland.
For photographers and daywalkers alike, the Croesus Track rewards patience. The best frames come from ridge-top vantage points where light sculpts the contours of the land and the juxtaposition of nature and abandoned industrial attempts tells a story in a single view. Keep an eye on micro-habitats too: tussock-dominated slopes shelter small flowers and insects that thrive in the alpine fringes, and the sense of seasonal change is pronounced across the corridor.
Practical considerations: the route is a backcountry experience. While the track is historic and well-trodden in places, conditions can vary, and sections cross exposed ground. Be prepared with appropriate footwear, layered clothing for rapidly changing weather, and basic navigation tools. Respect the relics — they are heritage features and also potentially unstable — and practice leave-no-trace principles so that the atmosphere that makes the Croesus Track compelling