Perched where the high moors of southwestern England meet the Bristol Channel, Exmoor National Park in Devon is a study in dramatic contrasts: wide, wind-sculpted heather moorland giving way to deep, tree-lined combes and an indented, cliffed coastline that drops into foaming seas. Ranked 40 in our National Parks & Highlands series, Exmoor feels intimate and elemental — a place where the horizon and the weather shape every outing.
First impressions are of space and skyline. From the open summits of the moor you can scan long stretches of velvet-colored heather, scattered boulders and the occasional silhouette of a grazing Exmoor pony — a native, hardy breed that embodies the park’s wild character. The moorland is crossed by simple, rewarding ridges and low-slung tracks that suit long single-day walks and slow, contemplative rambling rather than strenuous alpine ascents.
Down from the high ground the landscape folds into deep, wooded valleys. These combes are cool, green and often scented with spring blossom and fern; they shelter a quieter, older countryside of stone bridges, ancient lanes and small farms. Rivers and streams thread these valleys, making for pleasant riverside walks and secluded picnic spots where you can feel the park’s historical layers beneath your feet.
If Exmoor’s interior rewards slow walking and wildlife watching, its coastline supplies uncompromising theatre. Cliffs plunge into the Bristol Channel, with hidden coves, dramatic headlands and panoramas that change with every light shift. The small twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth are classic gateways to the coast, with narrow streets and viewpoints that look out over rocky bays. Close by, the Valley of Rocks offers a lunar-like arrangement of weather‑carved tors and ledges along a coastal ridge — excellent for photographers and anyone who wants immediate, unmediated contact with the elements.
Wildlife and natural richness are central to Exmoor’s appeal without feeling contrived. Birdlife is abundant along the shorelines and in the woodland pockets; small mammals and